Day 6: Takaragawa - The Most Beautiful Place on Earth?

We're skipping ahead a little bit and talking about our favorite place of the entire trip, Takaragawa Onsen.  From the moment I saw the website, http://www.takaragawa.com/english.html, I just knew it was one of the places we had to visit, but we actually didn't put it on the schedule until about two weeks before we left!  Takaragawa is situated close to the Minakami train station, about two hours from Nagano (where we stayed the previous night) and a little over two hours from Tokyo. 

The Minakami station is fairly small, you have to walk across the street to get to the tourist information office which has the bus schedule for the onsen in the area.  It seems to be mostly a tourist town although it didn't feel crowded or 'touristy'.  The street across from the train station also features a few eateries that do a pretty good business for lunch.  We stopped at a little noodle restaurant right next to the information office where the hubby had his favorite bowl of noodles.  It featured homemade noodles that resembled long dumplings, ground pork, and large rustic vegetables.  Delicious and filling!

A view of the building from the bridge

We took the local bus to a drop-off point where someone from the onsen staff comes to shuttle you the rest of the way there.   The roadway up the mountain made it pretty clear why the bus does not go that far!  There was a complimentary bus that ran in forty minutes or so, but paying the 1000 yen (~$11) per person was worth it to be there early.  We were impressed by our reception.  They sit you down in a little area where you're served some tea while someone goes through the check-in process with you.  The tea was a little unusual and somewhat spicy, but we didn't catch the name of it.  Then they let you pick out your yukata and show you to your room.  We had booked a room (called Ume) in the Annex with a river view and no private bathroom.  This turned out to be perfectly situated to access the outdoor baths and the view was spectacular.  From our room we could look left and see the bridge that you must cross to get to the onsen and to our right you could just make out the baths.  The room was also very spacious.  It had a small foyer, large heated tatami room with a table, and a sink and sitting area toward the back.  It also had a mini bar stocked with beer and sake.

A very steamy shower room with indoor baths

The shared bathrooms in this annex had two separate water closets for women each with a washlet toilet with bidet functions.  The heated seats were oh so nice as the bathrooms didn't seem to be well heated!  They were also very clean.  The only disadvantage to our room location was that we were on the other side from the public indoor baths with the washing stations.  The hubby and I, after taking some photos in our room, headed there to wash up for our onsen adventure.  Again, we were very impressed by these public baths.  Each station featured some shampoo and body rinse, but we really didn't spend much time there because the best was waiting for us outside. 

Looking across the river toward the first large bath

We stuffed our room key and wash cloths into the provided lockers and took the locker key along with two towels a piece out to the baths.  At Takaragawa, because all but one of the outdoor baths are konyoku (mixed gender bathing) with clear water, they ask that everyone wear towels into these baths.  The baths are built alongside a river.  We crossed the bridge and took a peak at the pet bears in their cages.  We also saw a lot of day bathers headed down to the outdoor baths as well.  Trees with orange leaves overhung the path.

The other side of the bridge features the path down to the baths

We stopped at the first changing station that divided one large bath and one small bath and put our towels on.  Men and women have separate changing rooms, of course.  We tiptoed into the large bath to get used to the water.  Mostly men and some couples were sitting on rocks along the walls of the bath which were built with stone.  The hubby and I found a good spot and settled in to enjoy the scenery.  There was an interesting sculpture toward the other end of the bath.  After some time we noticed that there was an adjacent smaller pool connected to this one where the water was quite a bit hotter so we waded in there after the other couple departed.  Trees also overhang the bath so once in a while we saw leaves floating in the water. 

Rising steam and a sculpture in the first bath

After about an hour or so we headed in to rest before dinner.  Our dinner was served in a communal dining room but the lights were turned down low and each table featured its own pot with hot coals to cook fish over so it still felt very intimate.  Our server was friendly and attentive, asking where we were from and where we were headed to and such.  Our dinner felt like a feast!  One unique dish they served us was bear soup.  It looked like a hearty vegetable stew with a piece of meat in it that was a little tough--it could have passed for beef.  However, we can now say we've eaten bear meat.

The bear soup is here on the left

After dinner we tried out the other large bath that was on the same side as the Annex building.  What we didn't realize until the next morning was that there was actually a path from our building to this bath!  Instead, we had walked across the first bridge, past the first bath, and across a second bridge to get there.  This bath also had a changing room attached to it, and its water was cooler in spots which allowed us to stay longer.  Because it was dark we couldn't really enjoy the view of our surroundings, but we could hear the river rushing by.

The baths were open 24 hours, so we set our alarm clock and took another dip at 1 AM when we had it all to ourselves.  We tried the smaller bath on the other side of first bath which had something of a stronger sulfur smell.  It was wonderful to just lay there and stare at the moon and stars.  The pathways were lit to help guide us to and from the baths.  It was also probably 45 F outside, so it was quite a chilly walk on the way there but worth it.

The third bath with the river to the right

At first light we ventured out again to snap some pictures before others arrived and then went in to enjoy our breakfast which was in the same dining room. 

We both agreed that we would stay here for a longer length of time when we next get to visit Japan.  The scenery, welcoming hospitality, and 24 hour baths all made for a relaxing getaway.  We should also mention that we encountered two people on the staff who spoke English very well, so don't feel intimidated if you don't speak much Japanese.  This place is recommended in guide books and is one of the most popular onsen in Japan, but we never felt like we were in a tourist trap.  To date, we have to call it the most beautiful place on earth that we have seen with our own eyes.

Day 4: Sumo in Fukuoka

Fukuoka, specifically Hakata Station, was about a two hour shinkansen ride from Beppu.  It's home to the sumo tournament in November every year.  We used http://www.buysumotickets.com/ to purchase our tickets ahead of time while we were still in the States. 

We stayed at our first Western style hotel near the station, the bHakata.  This was an excellent hotel both in price and location because it allowed us to walk back to the station and grab a bus headed for the Fukuoka Kokusai Center.  In general, we were surprised by the affordability of Fukuoka.  Our hotel per night cost half of what it cost to stay in Tokyo!  The glimpse we got of the city as our bus wound its way to the tournament showed us a modern city.  The roadways were wide with plenty of sidewalk room.  The buildings were newer.   All in all, we got a good vibe from the city.

Ceremony introduction Makuuchi division competitors

Now, onto sumo.  The hubby and I really didn't know anything about sumo and wanted to watch it for the novelty, but it quickly became one of his favorite hand-to-hand sports.  Fortunately, the ushers at the tournament provided some information in English including a booklet about sumo's history and how the matches are played.  The last division,  Makuuchi, started at about 3:30 PM so we were there 30 minutes early and got to see some of the previous division's fights. 

 We were surprised by the lack of filled seats in the stadium, but we were also there very early in the tournament (which lasts 15 days).  The stadium had a mixture of seats and floor mats.  There were many enthusiastic spectators some carrying man-sized banners with the name of their favorite competitor.  Sumo fans are vastly different from fans of American sporting events.  There is no wild cheering, booing, chanting, theme songs, waves or anything of the sort, but everyone is equally passionate and extremely focused on the action.  For the most part everyone speaks softly and allows others to hear the action and announcements coming from the ring far below.  It didn't seem like microphones were used at all.  For example, at the beginning of a match a man sings the names of the competitors toward the side on which they enter the ring.


Also unlike American sporting events, the price of beer is not inflated at all.  A normal can of beer runs the same as it does in any vending machine, approximately 350 yen.

 We both picked our favorites for each match based on their poise and balance as they go through the pre-fight rituals which include a lot of "mental warfare" where they just stare each other down.  Sometimes the matches would last but seconds once the two finally engaged.  The match is over once one competitor steps or falls out of the ring or falls while inside of the ring.  We saw everything from fighters being picked up by their competitor and set outside of the ring to being tossed out and tumbling into the spectators nearby.  We also saw one match where it ended in a draw since both fell at the same time.  The judges conferred and had them re-do the match!   We realized that sumo is not a sport about weight and size.  It's about strength, balance, power, and technique.

Random pre-match belt slapping

Ceremonial dance featuring Yokozuna Hakuno

Maybe it was fate, but we happened to be at the tournament on a very special night.  It was the night the Yokozuna Hakuho LOST his first match after 63 consecutive wins.  He was attempting to beat the all time record of 69 wins during this tournament, but it was not to be.  He and his competitor Kisenosato were the last match of the night.  They wrestled for quite a while until Kisenosato was able to push him out of the ring.  The entire stadium erupted in a standing ovation and cheers.  I was somewhat shocked, but I figured it was out of respect to Kisenosato.  The Yokozuna title is the highest rank a sumo fighter can achieve--there have been periods in history where no Yokozuna was named.  As the tournament is over now, I can safely say that Hakuho went on to win every other match and take the championship title.  The news coverage of his loss the next day was significant.

We noticed that the sumo tournament was broadcast on basic TV every night for the last division from 3:30 to 6 PM without commercials, too, throughout the country.  Astounding.

We didn't get good pictures of this, but Hakuho had his own cheering section which included a lot of kids.  They were all dressed in Mongol garb and held up a Mongolian flag (Hakuho is Mongolian).   When we watched the tournament on TV later in the week it seemed like we could hear this section that was still there!

After the tournament we took the bus back to our hotel and set out to find dinner.  We happened upon a charming restaurant not too far away that we failed to get the name of.  Basically, the picture menu on the outside attracted us in.  The staff spoke very little English, and they didn't really have an English menu, but we were able to point to what we wanted which was a set-course meal for two.

Wonderful, delicious food!  My favorite was the pork--the broth was incredibly delicious with just the right amount of sweetness.  Fukuoka is supposed to be known for its pork-flavored ramen broth.

Sashimi

Shrimp-stuffed, crab eggrolls

Seared beef with some greens and onion

Pork on top of a radish (I think)

Not pictured above: a starter salad that came with our sashimi and the conclusion of the meal which was rice and miso soup. 

Day 3 & 4: Hoyoland Onsen (Hot Spring)

We took the shinkansen from Kyoto down to Beppu which is on the large southern island of Kyushu. I thought the look of this shinkansen on the inside was unique, but the ride was bumpier than any other bullet train rides we had.

Beppu is known for its onsen baths and hells and that was abundantly apparent when we took the bus to Hoyoland as we could see steam rising from various hot spring sources throughout the town. We chose Hoyoland as one of our onsen stops because it is known for its mud baths and mixed gender outdoor bath where men and women can bath together. When we pulled up, I was a little bit discouraged by the outward appearance of the place. It looked like a modern (not rustic) rundown building, but the large bridge in the background made for a nice picture.

Once inside we saw a lot of day bathers--people that pay the admission price to bathe during certain hours. This was an encouraging sign. We had booked a room by e-mailing them months ago as they didn't appear to have any partner booking sites in English. Although the woman greeting us said we should have called them first from the train station, she gave us a room at a lower rate than what we had agreed to through e-mail and explained the layout of the place and the baths.

The hallway to our room on the second floor did not look very inviting but our room was a bit of a surprise. The tatami mats were clean and the room did not smell like smoke.  All of the ryokans we booked  never gave us a choice to pick a non-smoking room! The room was spacious compared to our Kyoto accommodations with a seating area by the windows and a sink at the entrance. We had booked a room without a private bathroom but having the sink was a nice surprise.  The shared restroom down the hall was pretty old and somewhat dirty.

We changed into our yukatas (cotton PJs basically), grabbed the towels provided in the room, and found our way to the baths which were down a pretty covered path set apart from the ryokan. We entered into a large lounge room with a tatami floor. Day bathers that had just enjoyed a bath were resting there. The man at the entrance to the baths handed me a shower cap.  Understandably , they discourage getting your hair covered in mud.
 
The hubby and I went into our separate changing rooms. Like the public bath house, the first area is a changing room this time with cubby holes for keeping personal belongings. I put my yukata in there and took just the towel in with me to the washing stations. Directly by the washing stations was a large indoor bath with almost milky white water where several women were bathing.  In the adjoining room was another bath built into the ground with separated stations.  The goal was to find the mixed outdoor bath.  I attempted to follow the signs which led me down a covered towel-flanked path but when I got to the end it didn't seem like I could go any further.  Peaking out on the left side I saw a bunch of men bathing in the outdoor bath!  The lady at reception clearly said there was a way for women to enter the bath without being seen.  I backtracked and asked some of the ladies bathing about the konyoku (mixed) bath and they continued to point me down this path.  I finally realized I had to push on the door at the end!  It led out into a covered area where you can get into the water and then exit out to the mixed bath fully under the milky water.  There were even baskets to hold your towel in this little alcove.  What a relief.

The wooden structure on the left side is where women enter privately.

Taken early in the morning when no other bathers were present.

Out in the mixed bath there were a lot of men and only one or two women at first, and the hubby was waiting there.  The bath is actually separated by a wooden beam to keep men and women on their own sides.  Very few of the men were shy when entering or exiting the bath.  Some didn't even bother to cover themselves when walking to get back to their locker room!  The bottom of the bath was very muddy in some parts--it squished between my toes as I tried to find a good place to sit.  I watched some of the other women pick this mud up from the bottom and spread it all over their arms, neck, and face--making a mud mask.  They also largely ignored the men by turning and facing the other direction.

The one drawback to this kind of bath is that when the water gets too hot to bear as a woman you can't just stand up for a few minutes.  I soon retreated to the entrance alcove to rest a while and then go in to try some of the other baths before rinsing off and returning to the room.

Dinner was another nice surprise.  We ate downstairs in the dining room where they had our tables labeled by room number.  Our host and hostess showed us what we were having and offered the hubby a fork if he preferred that to chopsticks.  He declined which I think pleased them.  Our first Japanese-style meal consisted of several dishes including squid and shrimp sashimi, clear soup, fried fish and vegetables, cabbage salad, picked vegetables, shrimp and more vegetables, seaweed salad, rice, and of course, green tea (ocha).  It was delicious and filling!

After dinner we felt tired so we elected to sleep early and bathe again at first light.  Our hidden motive was to try to get the baths to ourselves so that we could take pictures and we were successful!  Although there were a few other bathers with us that morning because it was cloudy and rainy, nobody came to the mixed outside bath.

Breakfast consisted of miso soup, raw egg, rice, seaweed crackers, and some vegetables.  The hostess asked us if we were OK with eating the raw egg.  We said yes although neither of us had ever done it!  The hubby slyly watched other breakfast-goers so that we could figure out what to do.  We mixed a little bit of soy sauce into it before adding it to our rice.  It's really not bad at all!  






We departed after breakfast and took the bus to see the famous Tatsumaki Jigoku geyser in the area.  It rivals the Old Faithful geyser of Yellowstone Park and spouts every 25-30 minutes for about five minutes.  Although they had a seating area for viewing, people crowded around the fence just in front of the geyser and then everyone scrambled to get a picture during its five minute duration.   

We got our picture as well!

                                                                                          

After departing Beppu we headed west toward Fukuoka for the sumo tournament.  More about that in an upcoming post.

Day 2: Kyoto, Tired Feet

Due to jet lag we could only sleep about four hours or so during our first night.  We were up bright and early the next morning to start our one-day tour of some of Kyoto's most famous shines, temples, and other sights.  Stuffing our essentials into our packable daypack, we began by wandering south back toward Kyoto Station from our ryokan and then east toward the southern Higashiyama area.

Part of Chion-in Temple

Kyoto is an extremely dense city whose beauty is either hidden in the side streets or on the outskirts near the temples and shrines.  I was struck by how a temple will be just in the middle of a residential neighborhood and the locals who pass by stop and offer a quick prayer.  There were also streets with intricate cobblestone patterns and manhole covers that featured a beautifully forged piece of metal.  The architecture on everything from the most common household to the most ornate temple is a sight to behold; one that does not truly convey until you are surrounded by it.  The woodwork alone on every door, window frame and roof is something to envy.

Something we noticed about the residential streets is that they probably persisted from a time when automobiles did not exist.  Each of these streets is wide enough only for one car and yet they all seem to be two-way streets!  When two cars meet, one must pull to the side and let the other pass.  We saw a lot of bikes for this reason and just about every bike is equipped with a headlight and a basket in front for purses/backpacks. 

Nakamachi street that leads up to Kiyomizu Dera Temple

Although the temples and shrines didn't open until 9 AM, we got a private glance at much of the outside architecture because we were there so early.  We also took the less popular path to Kiyomizu Dera Temple through a cemetery and mausoleum built into the the hills of Kyoto.  It was quiet and peaceful and beautiful.  We hope it wasn't disrespectful to take pictures.

Kiyomizu Dera Temple

Fushimi Inari

Sites
1. Sanjusangando
2. Hojuji Temple
3. Chishakuin Temple
4. Myohoin Temple
5. Nishi-Otani Mausoleum
6. Kiyomizu Dera
7. Yasaka Shrine
8. Chion-in Temple
9. Gion distrist
10. Fushimi Inari Torii Gates
11. Arashiyama Monkey Park

Lunch at Cafe Luce in Southern Higashiyama

My favorite area in Kyoto was the Arashiyama area.  The light was fading and we didn't have enough time to see both the bamboo grove and the monkey park so we chose the monkey park with the crazy hike up to the top.  From the top there is a gorgeous view of Kyoto city that was too hard to convey in pictures due to the fading light and overhead clouds.  What I liked about the Arashiyama area was that it was a vibrant place that local young people seem to flock to at night due to all of the restaurants and shops.  There's also a river that we saw people just sitting beside and enjoying.

Arashiyama Monkey

Our feet felt like they were going to fall off after the monkey park so we headed back to the ryokan for a nap and got horribly lost trying to find it from the west side of town.  We woke up around 10:30 PM and headed to the Gael Irish pub in the Gion area that was suggested in our guidebook.  Unfortunately, the kitchen was already closed at this hour but we enjoyed a drink or two.  This pub was very friendly to foreigners but was pretty dull on a Saturday night.  So we decided to ask for suggestions for nearby karaoke and food places.  Our server suggested the karaoke bar next door and took us over there to introduce us.  She said that the owner was celebrating his birthday today.

Kazuki, the owner, holding up his bottle of Dom Perignon

James and I were nervous upon entering because it looked like a modern upscale bar that could fit maybe 16-20 people max.  Also, the karaoke system was for the entire bar--very different than what we had heard about karaoke in Japan.  After the introductions and sitting down, they placed menus and microphones in front of us!  Asking about this bar turned out to be a great decision.  They showed us how to work the karaoke request machine and James belted out some Bon Jovi to get things going.  Request for other American songs quickly followed.  As it was the owner's birthday, there were many toasts and well wishes.  We're not sure, but we believe he paid for the first bottle we took part of which was about a $300 Dom Perignon.  Our first ever.  I even ventured to sing one Japanese song I knew.  The owner asked about where we were from and so forth.  He was very generous and helpful.  As more of his friends floated into the bar we continued to run up our tab and sing songs and cheer the others on as they sang.  We didn't leave until 4:30 AM!  They all wished us farewell and asked us to come back the next night.  The owner shook our hands and gave us business cards for his website and some candy.  This place, Sanctuary, was definitely not a place we would have felt comfortable wandering into on our own without a Japanese friend or without introductions.  At this bar more than any other place in Kyoto we felt very welcome.

We got back to the ryokan and fell asleep around 5:30 AM.  It was more than we could ask for as a first day in Kyoto!

Day 1: Arriving in Japan and our First Public Bathhouse

Our first international flight was better than we expected.  Beer and wine were complimentary and all announcements were made in English, Japanese, and Chinese.  Going through Narita Airport's check-in processes was quick and painless.  The only long line we encountered was for exchanging our voucher for the Japan Rail (JR) 14-day pass which is available only to foreign tourists.  We purchased the voucher before coming to Japan as is required.  The travel service center also reserved seats for us on the Narita Express--a shinkansen (bullet train) that takes people into Tokyo and back.

At Tokyo Station we transferred to another bullet train for our approximately three hour ride to Kyoto.  Tokyo Station on a Friday evening around 6 o'clock was madness!  We are certain that we were in the way while asking for directions on how to get to our next train.  Something we noticed almost immediately was that everyone here walks to the left and passes on the right (just like driving I suppose), but it's the opposite of what we were used to in the U.S.

At Kyoto Station we used the map provided by our ryokan (traditional style accommodations) Nagomi Yuu to make our way there.

We picked up some food at the 7Eleven on the way.  Our first Japanese meal was a fast-food one due to the excessive feeding they do on the plane ride.  It still beats our fast food, though!

Finding our ryokan was very straightforward from the directions provided, but our room was tiny--the tiniest place we stayed in during our entire trip, but it did have an attached private bathroom as well as free wireless.  To give you an idea of the size, if you lay out the two futons (traditional style bedding) side by side you've taken up almost the entire room save maybe two feet at the foot of the bedding.

The ryokan was located just down the street from a public bath house which had the word "Yu" written on the banner on the outside.  It looked like it closed in about an hour and a half at midnight so after checking in, we headed there.  Oh boy, I greeted the man attending the counter in Japanese and asked for towels after paying.  He responded in Japanese indicating that it was an extra charge but that we would get it back once we returned the towels.  It took me a while to understand that part!

The hubby and I went into our separate areas for men and women.  Keep in mind that although we had read about bathing etiquette, this was our first time.  It helped probably that there were so many people already in there to watch.  First, you strip down to your birthday suit in the locker room area and put all of your clothes and valuables in a basket (if provided) and put that in a locker.  Take the locker key and a modesty towel (washcloth if needed) in with you.  The heat hits you as you open the door to the baths.  The indoor bathing area had about five different baths and several washing stations.  Grab a stool and bucket and set it down at your washing station if they aren't already there.  Usually some soap and shampoo is provided in pump bottles between every station.  I tried to read the kana on each bottle to make sure I was using the right one for its function!  I think one said Shampoo and the other one said Rinse...  Anyhow, the point is to scrub down and get really clean prior to entering any of the baths.  It was pretty strange having never seen so many nibbles and bits up close of other women.  Some of the women carry their towel to and from each bath to cover themselves and then set the towel on their head.  Others just walked around completely nude while changing baths.

Some women rinsed off between each bath at the washing stations and others just took a bucket and splashed the next bath's water on them prior to entering.  One bath was super hot with bubble jets and another one had what looked like mineral additives because the water was green.  My favorite one was the outdoor one.  It was set into the ground with rocks lining it and had slightly milky looking water.  Being outside in the cold night air (it was probably in the 50's F) and submerging most of yourself in the hot water was fantastic.  Note that almost all baths were only high enough to cover your shoulders if you sit down.  I think only the jetted tub was a stand-up tub.

I had previously kept my hair up in a bun but once I noticed that the locker room had hair drying stations, I went back to the washing station and washed my hair.  The public bath houses really have everything you need minus personal things like razors and toothbrushes to take a bath.  They also have weighing scales.  Hmph.  For an entry fee of about 560 JPY (think a little less than $7), it was worth it!  I could do this every week.

The husband and I amazingly got out within about five minutes of each other and exchanged stories on our way back to the ryokan.  He had tried the sauna on the men's side (I didn't try the one for women) and suggested that you take one of their provided mats in.  He didn't and tried to sit on the wood directly... ouch.  He also suggested that the towel and locker room key can go into your bucket and be set outside of your bathtub.

We were so glad to have tried it on our first night in Kyoto.  It was the perfect relaxation after a long day on a plane ride and then a train.

A picture we took the next morning outside of the public bath house.

The List

We know we won't have time to see everything, so we didn't plan out every minute spent in the major cities (Kyoto, Tokyo).  However, there are some things that we would regret not experiencing, so here's a list of the things we hope to accomplish while we're there:

• Konyoku Onsen (Mixed-bathing hot springs)
• Sumo (we've already got tickets for the tournament in Fukuoka)
• Shinkansen (Bullet train ride)
• Temples and Shrines
• Gion District, Kyoto (can we glimpse geisha or maiko?)
• Flea Market shopping in Tokyo (souvenirs and fashion!)
• Akihabara in Tokyo (geek and anime district)
• Karaoke Bar
• Food, lots and lots of good food
• Wagyu (high-grade Japanese steak)
• Fresh sushi
• Random food stalls

Packing Light. Yes, Please.

Backpacks.  For two main reasons:

1) We're doing a lot of train travel, and there's not much room for luggage on trains.
2) We want to avoid airline luggage fees.

The goal is to pack only what we need, do laundry at strategic points of our trip, and bring home functional souvenirs (read: clothes).  The places we will be in Japan will be between 30F and 60F in mid November.

Here's a look at the backpacks we chose:

Looks like Sophie's wondering where her bag is at...

The Osprey Porter 46 (regulation carry-on size) with one main compartment that features two mesh zipper pockets; a compartment at the top for easy-to-reach items; and a zippered flat pouch on the outside.  The compartment at the top is where we'll be stashing items we'll need to get to on the plane and upon arrival (reading book, iPhone, hand sanitizer, etc.).  This backpack also features padded shoulder straps, waist and across-the-chest straps, and compression straps.  The waist strap is so important!!  It distributes some of the weight to your midsection instead of having it all on your shoulders.

As the Porter 46 only has one large compartment, packing cubes/folders were a must to organize our clothes and toiletries separately.  I bought two sets of the packing cubes and a folder from Magellan's.  I utilized two existing organizers from my Samsonite luggage which coincidentally fits the regulation size bag perfectly.

No cubes for Dillon, though.

Any unused packing cubes will be traveling with us to hold souvenirs for the journey home.

The Packable Daypack by Eagle Creek is the little orange pouch seen in the picture above.  We'll likely be shoving items needed on hand into this and touring with it while keeping our backpacks either at the hotel or in a train locker.  I have a feeling that this daypack will be the extra space we need on the flight home.